This August I joined five other canoe guides in Labrador, Canada to explore the McPhayden River and the mountainous region through which it runs. Labrador is the continental portion of Newfoundland Province. Getting there requires a two days drive north east of the U.S-Canada border, accessed by one sometimes paved road.
Photo Credit: www.canadamaps.comAll of us have worked or currently work for Keewaydin Canoe Camp in Temagami, Ontario. Our trip was planned by one of our party, Garrett Kephart. We paddled two wood canvas boats and one synthetic fold up pack boat. We tripped in the traditional fashion of Keewaydin Camp using wood fire to cook our meals, wannigans to store our food and tumplines to carry our loads.
In the McPhayden we found a place both austere and abundant. It is a vast wilderness undisturbed by man, but accessed through the growing gateways of a mining operation and a hydropower project, both colossal in their scale.
This world of extremes came into perspective as soon we climbed our first peak shorty after the float plane left us on the river. As far as the eye could see we were alone within undisturbed taiga forest, and for a brief stretch of time, we knew we were to be spoiled with space.
It is for all this separateness place and the richness of land and water, that Matt Mckean, one of our group, characterized Labrador as “northern exotic”.
This is a photologue of that trip:
ferry across the Saguenay River at Tadoussac, Quebec
rest stop on road heading to Labrador City. ok, now we're getting into it. 
Manic 5 dam, part of Hydro-Quebec's Manicougan power system. it powers Quebec and parts of the U.S. 
the office of Labrador Air Safari
Fraser canoe strapped and ready to fly
Labrador City from the air
the beaver leaves us on the McPhayden River
McPhayden from first mountain
our first take of the expanse 
campsite day 1 
scouting a rapid that only Matt and John shot
the all consuming burn that leaves a rugged landscape even more bare 
from torched earth, to fertile undergrowth. blueberries.
s-turn, we ran it
Labrador's whale back mountains frame the landscape. 
lunch stop at tributary 
icy cool tributary, the river grows.
John and Matt set up
spray skirt in effect
Matt bails skirt
we attempted to sail flat section, wind sort of complied 
boats from Esker
the river widens and matures
camping on hilltop. we are alone here
clean, vast and wild
to become very small when looking out
Constantine tracks through caribou moss
reviewing the days ahead. the burn spared our magnificent finale.
setting up a rain fly in advance of clouds to the west.
it's cold and windy, but not raining. 
just before sleep.
the cabin of a Native hunter left unlocked. we warmed ourselves through lunch.
iron ore revealed in an escarpment. we have been climbing on top of future steel products for days.
Lake Menihek. the biggest water expanse of the trip so far. 
pit bull pike surrenders to Garrett. 
exploring feeder river. yes, it's beautiful there as well.
Lake Mehihek. we are alone here too. this lake is huge. 
Tshiuetin Rail Transport siding. we learn about waiting, train regulations and the mechanics of track leveling.
an inside look at the cockpit of a rail leveler, compliments of a rail leveling expert.
the man in charge of rail operations. a proud 'Newfie' and great story teller. that nose was broken on a rink eight times.
our ride arrives the next day. the train line is owned by Natives from Shefferville, Quebec. story is that the mine sold it to them for a dollar. now the mine wants it back.
le mp3 est plus interessant que Ben.
not that hand or any other. 
freight car where we belonged.
two hours later.
road back to Labrador City.
riding back. it's satellite radio and then the world.
2 comments:
Ben, the photos leave me feeling the vastness. Thank goodness vastness still exists.What was the menu? Fish?
Looks like a good old time. Makes me miss "The Big Land." Exploring it by pick-up was just a little less rugged than by canoe. NW
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