Tuesday, November 20, 2007

“Beyond Beale Street”: Postcards from Memphis Part

Sam Phillip's Sun Studio, currently a museum and a studio for rent

Memphis, Tennessee like its popular sister city downriver, trades on its culinary and music heritage. Elvis, Al Green and Johnny Cash, among many other musicians all began their careers in the Bluff City at Sun Studio, and institutions like Interstate and Rendezvous Barbeque have secured the town as a Mecca for smoked pork.

As a tourist, you have the convenience of one stop shopping for all things Memphis right in one location: Beale Street. And because you have thought of nothing but smoke ribs or beef tips since you arrived, you enter Beale Street through the doors of the Blues City Café.

Despite warning signs all around like the name itself, the affected diner décor and the all-things-for-everyone-menu (“Low Carb corner”, and “For the Kids”), you sit down and load up on the “world’s best temales”, and do your best with the respectable but not life changing baby backs.

In the end it all hits the spot.

You ask for the bill and realize that the cost to “put the South in your mouth”, as mandated at the door, has a very high-Yankee after taste.


From there on it is bar crawl and the Blues City Café has set the tone for this place.

You work your way down from bar to bar listening to fun but not great blues and juke joint performances. The crowd is middle aged and suburban. They are drinking more than they should and there is a lot of khaki against khaki on the dance floor. You continue to drink to make sense of it all, and by the time you get to the statue of W.C Handy, you ask yourself two questions: “How did I get so wasted?” and “How the hell did I arrive at Disney World?”

You may be drunk, but you are not mistaken, you have arrived at the Epcot Center for blues and barbeque.

It might seem like a bait and switch, but Beale Street is not a contrivance of the chamber of commerce. It is a real historical site of social and cultural significance for American music and African Americans. What we know as Memphis Blues style (BB King, Albert King, Muddy Waters) emerged from Beale Street and the groundwork of bandleader W.C Handy. Early civil rights activist, suffragette and co-founder of the NAACP Ida B. Wells published her anti-segregationist paper “Free Speech” on the same street.

In 1977 Congress officially declared Beale Street “Home of the Blues”. The official declaration helped boost an ailing inner city’s pride and positioned Beale Street to become the tourist draw that it is today for Memphis.

And so you stand there looking up at the famous local music venues such as The Hard Rock Café and BB King’s Blues Club and Restaurant and witness the commercial compromise that saved Beale Street, the result, like on Height, Bleeker and Bourbon Streets, is caricature of its former self.

You soon realize that kitsch brings both life and death to a place.

You now hear music in a different part of the city, and smell more barbeque and so you leave.

Now out of Beale Street, you have the rest of this wonderful, under appreciated city, all to yourself. Well, kind of all to yourself. Memphians also love to go out.




Downtown Memphis for the most part has been overlooked by gentrification. What remains is an urban façade of another era. On certain stretches you can make believe that you are back in the early 1970’s thanks to the backdrop of department stores, peanut vendors, and tobacconists. The signage and murals are not the wards of the historical society. They have just hung around.





"Why wait? Open Your Account Today", encourages the card.



Memphis welcomes the rest of world in May for the The Memphis in May Festival.

Live music and the International Barbeque Festival along the river celebrate this town's best assets as well as recognizing that there is barbeque from places beyond its river bank.

Upcoming Postcards from Memphis, Beyond Beale Street: For barbeque, the cab driver knows best....

and Graceland, a place of obsession and great carpet.

Monday, November 19, 2007

"Source to Plate" II

New York City food distributor to the needy, City Harvest, is featured in today's Times. The successful non-profit that collects quality unused food from the city's restaurants and then delivers to soup kitchens and pantries, is now going right to the source by striking deals with regional farmers. City Harvest buys at a deep discount produce that would otherwise go to seed and then harvests and delivers it to the organizations that serve the food insecure.

Click here for the NYTimes Piece

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Introducing Eating Issues: "Source to Plate "





This is the inaugural installment of a segment called Hunt and Gather.

I am going to briefly touch on the concept of "source to plate".

I have not read Michael Pollen's "Omnivore's Dilemma", but I have caught striped bass out of the back of a boat and I will challenge all sashimi devotees not to fall for a slice of raw striped bass belly drizzled with lemon juice, held with the calloused hands with which you landed the fish minutes before.

I define "source to plate" as the continuum and resources involved that bring your meal from earth, air or sea to your stomach.

And why should we care?

There are a lot reasons: environmental, economic, medical... but for our purposes, the answer is simple.

The shorter the distance between the harvest and your plate, the better tasting the meal is.

Writer Bill Buford has made an obsessive and quixotic second career out of shortening the distance from the farmer to his plate.

The superior quality of a "source to plate" meal comes from the sharpness of flavor that immediate freshness brings to meat or vegetables. Equally important is the context that local food provides to what is on your plate. By the sea in the summer, fresh mussels and sweet corn. Fall in the hills, apples and squash. Little Italy in September, friend dough and heartburn.

It is at this point in essays like this that the reader is instructed to forsake the chain grocery store and commanded to join a food Coop or rely on the local farmer's market for all sustenance.

"Only eat food from within 100 miles from your home."
"Buy only organic vegetables and grass fed beef."
"Don't buy beef, just buy grass."

The ability for most of us to command source to plate is difficult to impossible. I catch a couple of fish a year, don't hunt and the vegetables I grow are anemic and hard to come by. Equally, our opportunity to buy directly from farmers is challenging and often expensive.

The intent of the "source to plate" series is not to be didactic or scolding, but to explore the relationship between producer and consumer and to encourage a familiarity with the sources of our food.

Upcoming installment: "Fresh mozzarella salted with the tears of a widower"

Public Radio International's "Fair Game with Faith Salie"

When helping to produce Public Radio International's "Fair Game with Faith Salie", most likely my greatest contribution was securing the invaluable, albeit ,unscrupulous underwriting of Lance Sanders of Revision Realty. Sander's specialty is hot undervalued properties in Guantanemo Bay, Greenland and Baghdad.

Lance appears a few times in this show: (Click Here)

How Ali personalized Darfur

This summer I met a man named Ali. He drives a taxi here in New York. Ali was born in Western Darfur, Sudan. Before the world learned about the Janjaweed, Ali's family fell victim to their blunt ethnically targeted violence. His father was crippled and his uncle was killed. Ali's brother was dissapeared by the government for his efforts to exact justice.

The government eventually came for Ali. He was kidnapped from his home at gun point, tortured in a jail cell and then abandoned in a work camp. Ali managed to escape his captors while cleaning streets for a festival. He crossed the border to Chad by foot and eventually secured passage to the U.S. Ali then managed to bring his wife and baby daughter to join him here.

Ali's story is an incredible tale of survival, but also a powerful personal account of the dynamics at play in Darfur.

I interviewed Ali several times about his story. Stayed tuned for more on Ali.

In the mean time, here is an excellant link that addresses the genocide in Darfur:
http://www.eyesondarfur.org/

Locations of intrigue, cries for help

Bridge Noir



Manhattan Bridge from DUMBO














Golden Gate Bridge from near Fort Point

a blue highway to Patrolia, CA














Rte. 211 in Humboldt County, stunning and forgotten.

Maybe a handful of cars drive this road each day. There is no rail between you and 1500 feet of freefall.

Underground Color War

If you were a passenger on the uptown 6 Train between City Hall and Grand Central Station a few weeks ago you might have witnessed activity worthy of the MTA's mantra: "If you see something, say something". The notable behavior began when you pulled into City Hall and a handful of people with red, yellow and blue armbands ran into your car looked around and hid among you and your fellow passengers. When the doors closed, these color coded riders pulled out small sheets of paper and began to scribble notes. Upon completing their notations they then made hand signals to passengers with like colored armbands in the proceeding car. When the train arrived at the next stop some of the banded riders might have switched cars. A few might have stepped onto the platform, waited until the two tone bell signaled departure, and then jumped back onto your car just as the doors closed. That move is an improvised tactic known as a "psych" and it is part of a game called Metrophile.

Metrophile is the brainchild of five graduate students of the Interactive Telecommunications Program at New York University. The subway slalom was born from a class assignment to create a "big game", which Charlie Miller, one of Metrophile's designers, describes broadly as a "game that repurposes ubiquitous structures and public space, generally with a lot of players". The objective of Metrophile: to capture as many cars, and in turn points, before the train reaches its designated final station. The rules: color-coded teams of equal size capture one or several cars by outnumbering their opposition in any of the rear five cars of the train. Each player is given a chit sheet to record the car number and how many players of each team occupy the car. Depending on the bunching of the other teams, a car can be captured with as little as one person. If the doors close and a player is still on the platform, too bad, they are out.

From Canal to Bleeker Streets, team yellow thought they had a lead by retaining their early hold on the rear two cars against team blue, but as Astor St. and Union Square quickly passed, they noticed they were tying team blue and conspicuously not seeing team red. Members of team yellow dashed forward two cars weaving through a crowded 23rd street platform and rejoiced audibly as they successfully pried their way into the forward car door. The commuter leaning against that door severely under appreciated their accomplishment. The man grimaced, but his bright red headband unintentionally included him on in their antics, and therefore could not be taken seriously. In another car a man with an Australian accent laughed at the sight of the colored coded riders, and he demanded an explanation. When he was told it was a game, the Aussie dryly remarked, "Well, that's kind of obvious".

Grand Central Station arrived sooner than expected and the three teams emerged from their respective cars, removed their armbands, and reintegrated into the blur of commuters. The players then headed to Tequillaville on Vanderbilt Avenue for margaritas and beers, their payment for participation. As they imbibed and traded stories, the game designers finalized the tallies, and eventually Miller held up a poster covered mostly in red. Disappointed, both teams blue and yellow realized that they had been too focused on outmatching each other, leaving the forward cars all to team red. Despite the smart play by the winning team, everyone decided that chance and individual movement trumped group strategy on the track to victory in Metrophile. The teams all agreed to play again, this time up to 125th street. Although only in its "play test" stage, such enthusiasm inspired designers. They hope to enter the game into The Come Out & Play Festival this spring in New York. When asked how to judge if a new game is successful, Miller replied, " a good sign of a game is when everyone has fun." In the spirit of the big game ethos, commuting "repurposed" is now fun.

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

"The Caretaker": Chapter I

When Luc took the job as caretaker on the island, Marie his wife was three months pregnant. They had met in high school four years prior, in the mine town of Cobolt, one hour north of North Bay, Ontario. Luc had done a stint in the Canadian Army right after graduating and Marie received an Associates degree in restaurant management at a community college while Luc was enlisted. Both of their families were Quebecois and spoke French even though they lived in an English speaking community. Luc was raised by his grandfather who had been a miner and logger of the old stock. Luc’s physique resembled his grandfather’s, a tight assembly of compact torso, outsized arms and powerful hands. He had kind face with a shock of black hair. Marie herself was short, but very pretty with green eyes and a Gallic nose.

Although Marie’s family worked in a store in town, she took readily to Luc’s desire to live on the island on the north part of the lake, away from the community. They could live as they chose for the most part, and the summer camp that leased the island and was Luc’s employer would provide their housing and most of their supplies. It was a half hour by boat to the marina in the summer and one hour drive when the winter road was cleared after the lake froze. This remoteness was initially a bit of concern to Marie’s family but Marie had become more stubborn since she married Luc and she insisted that they would be fine, even if the hospital was a four hour trip away. Behind what had seemed like stubbornness, it was trust in Luc that sealed her decision. Luc had promised Marie that moving up to the island would be good for them and the baby. She knew he loved her, and that was enough.

The century old summer camp lay quiet on the other side of the island from Luc’s and Marie’s cabin. On sunny mornings, the main lodge and camper log cabins filled with a sharp bracing light. Luc would walk among these structures every morning. The previous caretaker had informed Luc what to look out for as winter approached. The biggest issues at this time of year were ice-covered branches breaking onto some of the buildings. It had been dry for the first few weeks of freezing temperatures, so this did not alarm him. He had done well to drain the plumbing in all the buildings, so the frozen pipes were also not an issue. Still every morning he walked around, checking the creaky wooden cabins, peaceful now after a summer of noise and movement.

Luc was also working on an ongoing carpentry project, tasked to him by the camp director before he left the island for the winter. Many of the cabin porches had decayed over the years and were in need of repair. Luc had offered his milling and carpentry skills as part of his qualifications for the position, and he was now fully using them as he cut the long planks needed for this large project. His grandfather had taught him how to use both manual and mechanized table saws. The camp owned a mechanized saw that was powered by a generator. The shop also possessed an ancient hand powered mill, one that Luc had not seen outside of his grandfather’s garage. Because the project entailed removing all planks from the cabin porches and then custom cutting the replacements to fit the idiosyncratic footprints, Luc took his time.
At sunset before heading back to the cabin, Luc often found himself standing on the lodge porch. He would walk to the southern corner, close his eyes and inhale the wind air across his face. It was sweet with the scent of the pine rot and fresh water. He felt protected here with the white noise of waves crashing around the point. As it all closed in on him he knew that this was his dominion.

For her part, Marie kept busy as well. After remodeling the modest wooden beam cabin, she took advantage of her time to experiment with recipes she had been working on at the restaurant back in town. Despite Luc insistence that she keep her movement to a minimum because of the pregnancy, Marie hauled in split billets from the cord of dry birch beside the cabin, in order to heat their wood stove. When Luc was doing his rounds in the morning she would look out the window above the sink in the kitchen and see their dock and the inky expanse of the lake.

One day in November, when looking out the window Marie saw ice collected on edge of the dock. Every morning since then, she would watch the progress of the ice as it gradually grew out from the shallows. She would stare for moments or maybe even several minutes out onto the water. The scene was now familiar and comfortable. On the morning of the first snow, Marie was standing at her post by the window and a light south wind rocked their metal workboat gently against the white dock. The bright rays of the early sun warmed the snow on the cedars and flashes of light gleamed off the melting water. It was clear but was not too cold. A few wrens dashed among the birches that stood by the steps that led to the water. She held on to a cup of warm tea in her left and hand with her right she caressed her protruded belly. Marie took in this view and then she began to cry. The tears crept on her suddenly, and before she realized it she had lost her breath and began to cough over the sink as mucus and snot rushed from her nose and mouth. She dropped the mug in the sink and ran into their bedroom and curled up into a ball, sobbing into a pillow. When Luc returned to the cabin, Marie was preparing lunch. She was wearing a new shirt and had washed her face.

She said not a word to Luc about what had happened that morning. Maybe because he seemed so happy or maybe because winter had set in, but Marie never mentioned the crying, even when it continued almost every morning for the next two weeks when he was working.
It was late- December and the lake was frozen enough for Luc to set up his ice fishing shed. One hundred yards or so off the point, he had dragged the outhouse shaped structure to an opening he had cut in the ice. Stored in the shed was a gas powered Coleman lamp, a stool and a small radio. Every day after supper he would venture to the shed for an hour to trick pickerel. Since the sun was going down at 3pm and because the cabin felt smaller and smaller, Luc enjoyed this time alone and he knew that Marie did as well.

Luc knew about Marie. He knew that she had been crying when he was gone. How quickly she removed his plate of breakfast when he was barely finished with it.

One morning during his rounds, Luc heard scratching in one of the camper cabins. Luc had been thinking when he was going to have to deal with rodents, and until this day he had been lucky. He went back up to the shop to fetch the keys to the door as well as the metal trap. The trap was a simple steel device of unknown origin. It hung from an old nail in the back of the shop and was the size of a large shoebox with a one-way door and a screw off top.

The cabin was dark when Luc entered. He hit the wood floor a few times to hear if the animal was still lurking about. The cabin was silent. Luc then baited the trap with two pieces of stale white bread and left it in the center off the room. He exited the cabin and locked the door.

After supper that evening Luc stood outside the porch of the cabin again. It was still silent inside. Luc unlocked the door and directed the beam of his flashlight into the dark room. The beam illuminated the gray box and inside Luc saw the yellow beads of little eyes. He walked up to the trap and placed the flashlight on the floor and lay along side of it peering into the cage. Spotlighted and trembling in the corner was a tiny red squirrel. It was as Luc had expected.

“Poor thing”, he thought.

Just as Luc was about to lift himself up he saw a reflection under a bunk across the room. He went over to the bed and pulled a small book from under the box spring. It was a black and white marbled covered journal similar to those he was given in primary school. “Jude” was handwritten on the cover. When Luc put the book in the pocket of his Carharts he felt something was wrong about what he was doing. He pointed his flashlight back over to the center of the room. No one would know he thought and he was alone in the ice shed. Luc grabbed the handle of the cage and the squirrel began to scratch at the cover. He put the flashlight back in his pocket, locked the door and went out into the night.

Flamands Part II

It was our fourth evening on St. Barths and my father and I had only gone out to eat once. This was a routine influenced by the obscene and garish price of anything served. On that night we decided that we would go out again, so my father suggested La Langustiere at La Hotel de Petit Anse located at the end of Flamands Beach. My father indicated that this was an old time place that he was familiar with and we could walk there. Reservations were made and shortly after we walked down the road past the Creole restaurant and some islanders’ houses to the end of a dark driveway. The hotel and the restaurant sit perched right on the beach and upon arriving the whole place radiated a calming sense of age and family. A young woman warmly greeted us. I mentioned our name and the reservation, which she confirmed by looking out at the several vacant tables in the dinner room.

As the name suggests this is a place that specializes in lobster. The lobsters are on display in large glass tanks facing the guests. The creatures were the spiny and armored relatives of the crustaceans I was used to in New England. They bunched up in the corners of the tank or latched on the walls, attempting to find some shelter in the impending glare of phosphorescent light and hungry diners. There was something a little too barbaric about the whole thing to pursue the house dish. Also it reminded me of the marginal restaurants that populate Chinatown in New York, those that specialize in various sea creatures swimming in a pool of algae and excrement. The tank here was immaculate, but it was the whole enterprise of the thing that spoiled it for me.

A handsome woman looking to be in her sixties approached our table with two menus. This was obviously the matriarch of the facility. She was tall and tanned with short gray hair and a strong jaw. She wore a simple but elegant black dress that fit her form. The older woman greeted us and my father introduced himself and called her by name to establish a familiar tone, although it was not entirely clear if the woman recognized us.

There is something about businesses with history and family control that put me at ease. This place was in stark contrast to the more slick and modern restaurants around the island that catered to Americans seeking the exclusive and expensive allure depicted for them in magazines at home. Such restaurants and hotels are oriented for people who take stock in spending money in places that their friends might have heard about or cited in an article that they may of read. We were not in such a place and this meant something to me. The following scene that played out furthered this sentiment. Annie had donned a leather glove in her left hand and in her right was wielding a net, not unlike one used to catch butterflies. Standing on the toes of her high- heel shoes, black dress extended, she swooped the net around the tank as the lobsters scrambled for their lives. She did this with little exertion or emotion. Yet the task was not simple at all. Even if she managed to surround a lobster in the net, their strong tails rocketed them out if not quickly lifting them from the water. Once on land a few lobsters crawled out of the plastic crate on the floor, forcing the owner to chase after them. I sat and took in this scene, well aware that I would not see a black dress chase a lobster anywhere else.

Flamands Part I

Flamands Beach, St. Barthelemy

In the afternoon, wives of rich men sit talking on their blankets, watching a little girl do cart wheels, the child of one of them. They talk about their lives and that it is good that little girls do cartwheels, but not so good that this one makes snowballs out of Caribbean sand.

I am lying on a blanket with a t-shirt over my face so as to not get melanoma on my nose and I listen to every word they say. I sit up and occasionally look over at the two of them and squint as my eyes adjust to the light, as if I had been living in a cave, just yards away from them on that beach in the Caribbean. They don’t notice me watching them with a tight -lipped grin some people have when their face is plastered with salt and set with sun.

I look at the brunette who is the mother of the little girl. The mother is attractive and looks very fit. She has a youthful form and wears a bathing suit that flatters her legs and buttocks which create a tanned A shaped archway between her heel and bottom of her ass. The blonde woman sitting next to her is louder and doing most of the talking. She is also well put together, but less attractive.

Every now and then the little girl would do a successful cartwheel and the two women would congratulate her by clapping their hands and saying “good job” followed by the girl’s name. Sometimes the girl would call to her mother asking her to watch and the girl would do something with her body or with the sand. The women would cheer her actions regardless of whatever she was doing, and then go back to talking amongst themselves.

At some point I focus on the two men in the water just off from where the girl is performing. One is rather muscular with hair slicked back to just above his shoulders. The other man is skinny with more of a receding hairline on his angular skull. They are floating in the water up right and talking as they negotiate the on coming waves. My assumption is that they are the husbands of the two women, and one of them is the father of the little girl. Neither of them look at the girl amid her calls and announcements, so the paternity is not entirely clear.

At some point they both exit the water and the skinnier of the two men greets the little girl and raises her in the air. Paternity established. She summarizes quickly her routine and her father cheers. The more built man walks towards the blonde woman and reveals a somewhat exaggerated physical form that he obviously maintains regularly at a gym or with a trainer. He is a good match for his wife, although he seems a bit younger than her. On the other hand, the skinny man is quite older than his wife, which is encouragement to men seeking svelte beautiful woman later in life. Although the women are clearly American, the skinny man has a trans-European affectation. The built man spoke with an accent that seemed to come from Southern California. The girl returned to the water line to practice her gymnastics.

What happens on the Lodge Porch

The Lodge sits out there in the dark. There is lamp that burns out front on the porch. People gather to that light to tell stories, share adventures, and exchange ideas.